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Laguna Event

September 7th, 2011 No comments

Took the car to Laguna in March. Craig drove his BMW and had a great time. The track was rainy in the beginning of the day, which made for some excitement! I ended up wrong-way around after Turn 2 entrance. Thereafter, I learned to be subtle with the throttle. Rain teaches you a lot.

The car was fantastic!

More and more confident through the day, and started really getting on it after Turn 5 where the sound station is. Black flag… Came in at 94.5 dB so very close. Just backed off a little after that in that spot and the rest of the runs were fine.

Categories: Uncategorized Tags:

oil changes

September 7th, 2011 No comments

first oil- Brad Penn break-in oil

50 miles – changed to Brad Penn straight 30 wt

500 Miles – changed to Joe Gibbs XP-1

lost a few quarts at a track event – high revs? blowby? rings not seated yet? Installed a blow-by can. nothing in it yet

2000 Miles – changed to Amsoil high zinc

About 1500 miles – changed LR axle oil seal, now need RR as well before running another event

Categories: maintenance Tags: ,

X Pipe

May 30th, 2010 No comments

I am installing a Dr Gas Crossover Pipe. This will help equalize the pressure between the 2 sides of the exhaust. This should add a bit of torque, and also quiet the exhaust down a little. I got the measurements from Scott on where exactly it needed to be (and not be) to optimize the torque curve. Amazingly, I’ve been able to nail the placement of the center of the X very close to ideal, about 35.9 inches from the ends of the primaries inside the header. This got a little interesting, because since the primaries on the left and right are different lengths, the collectors are different lengths as well.

I pulled a rookie move when I welded the center section together – I welded it all on one side and then the other. MIG gets really hot, so the metal warped a bit and threw off my nice fitment job.  I muscled it into place anyway. Hopefully that will work out.

new exhaust - IMG_7434.JPG
new exhaust - IMG_7434.JPG
new exhaust - IMG_7435.JPG
new exhaust - IMG_7435.JPG
new exhaust - IMG_7436.JPG
new exhaust - IMG_7436.JPG
new exhaust - IMG_7437.JPG
new exhaust - IMG_7437.JPG

Engine assembled

March 27th, 2010 No comments

Dad and I went over to Ray’s for the final engine assembly. We made a couple mistakes. First, we forgot to install the fuel pump eccentric! No matter, it forces me to go electric, which will be great. Second, we didn’t realize that htis type of lifter needs to be installed before the heads. oops. Otherwise, the assembly went great and the motor looks good.

The dial indicator helps us find top dead center
The dial indicator helps us find top dead center
finding TDC
finding TDC
The windage tray goes on. We had to machine these holes to fit. It seems that everything needs customization.
The windage tray goes on. We had to machine these holes to fit. It seems that everything needs customization.
Dad puts on the head for the first time. I'm putting molybdenum disulphide on the head bolt washers so that they have a smooth bearing surface.
Dad puts on the head for the first time. I'm putting molybdenum disulphide on the head bolt washers so that they have a smooth bearing surface.
Initial torque. We torqued the head bolts in 3 steps.
Initial torque. We torqued the head bolts in 3 steps.
final torque
final torque
2010 - IMG_7124.JPG
2010 - IMG_7124.JPG
lifters, pushrods, and rockers are in
lifters, pushrods, and rockers are in
2010 - IMG_7129.JPG
2010 - IMG_7129.JPG
looking good!
looking good!
2010 - IMG_7133.JPG
2010 - IMG_7133.JPG

Categories: Engine and Drivetrain Tags:

Transmission Linkage Rebuild

March 25th, 2010 No comments

One of the things about my old transmission was the sloppy shifting. Anyone who drove it could tell you,  you never really knew for sure if you’d shifted into a particular gear. Well, I bought a new Hurst Competition Plus shifter, part number 391 3180, and took it over to Ray’s. We took apart the old linkage and cut the rods to the proper lengths. Then, we threaded the ends and installed heim joints. Where new bushings were needed, Ray machined some new ones out of stainless steel on his lathe. Then, he took apart the Hurst and made shims for every gear. This process basically took out all of the slop and left me with a REALLY nice shifter.

This is the old shifter - an old Hurst style one, but not the right one for this transmission.
This is the old shifter - an old Hurst style one, but not the right one for this transmission.
2010-01-26 13.52.36
2010-01-26 13.52.36
trans - 2010-01-26%2B13.37.50.jpg
trans - 2010-01-26%2B13.37.50.jpg
You can see how the attachment is made between the rods and the transmission arms - the rod makes a 90 degree turn into that hole. There are plastic bushings (teflon?) that smooth the joint out, and the rods are then secured with a spring clip.
You can see how the attachment is made between the rods and the transmission arms - the rod makes a 90 degree turn into that hole. There are plastic bushings (teflon?) that smooth the joint out, and the rods are then secured with a spring clip.
We replaced the old sloppy joints with really nice solid heim joints that took out all the slop
We replaced the old sloppy joints with really nice solid heim joints that took out all the slop
The heim joints are fastened with AN 365 lock nuts. They're not going anywhere.
The heim joints are fastened with AN 365 lock nuts. They're not going anywhere.
trans - IMG_7138.JPG
trans - IMG_7138.JPG
Ray shimmed the shifter perfectly, so that there is no play in it. Very nice feel to the shifting now.
Ray shimmed the shifter perfectly, so that there is no play in it. Very nice feel to the shifting now.
trans - IMG_7140.JPG
trans - IMG_7140.JPG
trans - IMG_7204.JPG
trans - IMG_7204.JPG
trans - IMG_7205.JPG
trans - IMG_7205.JPG

Repairing the Inner Fender Apron

March 25th, 2010 No comments

I put the radiator in to test fit, and found that the battery is in the way. So I got the parts to move the battery to the trunk.
I put the radiator in to test fit, and found that the battery is in the way. So I got the parts to move the battery to the trunk.
I removed the battery tray, and found yet another rusted throug spot! The only way to properly repair this is to remove the whole panel and replace it. Luckily, these panels are easily obtained.
I removed the battery tray, and found yet another rusted throug spot! The only way to properly repair this is to remove the whole panel and replace it. Luckily, these panels are easily obtained.
To get access to remove the panel, i had to break down the whole front and side of the car. Took less than an hour.
To get access to remove the panel, i had to break down the whole front and side of the car. Took less than an hour.
Panel mostly removed, looking from the right side of the car towards the front.
Panel mostly removed, looking from the right side of the car towards the front.
I'm cutting the panel away with a die grinder. That is a sweet tool.
I'm cutting the panel away with a die grinder. That is a sweet tool.
inner fender apron - IMG_7071.jpg
inner fender apron - IMG_7071.jpg
inner fender apron - IMG_7073.jpg
inner fender apron - IMG_7073.jpg
test placement of the new panel
test placement of the new panel
inner fender apron - IMG_7080.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7080.JPG
Clecos are such good friends in this kind of work
Clecos are such good friends in this kind of work
inner fender apron - IMG_7083.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7083.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7084.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7084.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7085.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7085.JPG
Rosette welds every inch or so - stronger than the old spot welds
Rosette welds every inch or so - stronger than the old spot welds
The new panel didn't come with this fender mount bracket, so I took it off the old panel and welded it on.
The new panel didn't come with this fender mount bracket, so I took it off the old panel and welded it on.
inner fender apron - IMG_7088.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7088.JPG
I ground the welds down to make them smooth.
I ground the welds down to make them smooth.
inner fender apron - IMG_7090.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7090.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7091.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7091.JPG
Looking good painted and the radiator fits great
Looking good painted and the radiator fits great
inner fender apron - IMG_7082.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7082.JPG


Categories: Sheet Metal Tags:

Fuel Filter Bracket

March 25th, 2010 No comments

My friend gave me a killer fuel filter – Mallory 3140 – but it was missing a mount bracket. I made one out of 16 gauge sheet metal.

I cut this sheet metal with an air shear
I cut this sheet metal with an air shear
On the left is my fuel filter. My friend gave it to me, but it came without a mount bracket. No problem!
On the left is my fuel filter. My friend gave it to me, but it came without a mount bracket. No problem!
I drew out the pattern, marked the line for the screw holes, and hit the hole locations with a center punch before drilling. the center punch makes drilling so much easier - the bit won't have a tendency to "walk"
I drew out the pattern, marked the line for the screw holes, and hit the hole locations with a center punch before drilling. the center punch makes drilling so much easier - the bit won't have a tendency to "walk"
bent up the back in my vise, and ... finished! I should really have made a bigger mount bracket on the back. I didn't cut enough metal initially though, and this should be good enough.
bent up the back in my vise, and ... finished! I should really have made a bigger mount bracket on the back. I didn't cut enough metal initially though, and this should be good enough.

Carb

March 25th, 2010 No comments

My friend sold me this sweet carb. It’s a Holley 4150 that’s been rebuilt by The Carb Shop to their stage III race carb specs.  I did some rebuild work on it – replaced gaskets, cleaned all the old varnish out, replaced the power valve and accelerator pump diaphragms, replaced the fuel sight windows.  I also tapped and helicoiled the air filter mount and set the accelerator pump clearances.

I cleaned out all the old gas varnish with q-tips and carb cleaner.
I cleaned out all the old gas varnish with q-tips and carb cleaner.
With the throttle valves removed, this is the bottom of the carb
With the throttle valves removed, this is the bottom of the carb
This is a really nice carb that my friend gave me a great deal on. It's a Holley 4150, but it's been rebuild by The Carburetor Shop to their Stage III race carb specs.
This is a really nice carb that my friend gave me a great deal on. It's a Holley 4150, but it's been rebuild by The Carburetor Shop to their Stage III race carb specs.
carefully cleaned off the old gasket material from the metering blocks
carefully cleaned off the old gasket material from the metering blocks
These old accelerator pump diaphragms have seen better days. replaced!
These old accelerator pump diaphragms have seen better days. replaced!
Shiny new accelerator pump diaphragm
Shiny new accelerator pump diaphragm
After installing the new accelerator pump diaphragm, I set the travel of the pump actuator. Set the carb to Wide Open Throttle, push the pump arm to full on, and set the screw so that there is .015 clearance. This prevents you from tearing the diaphragm at WOT.
After installing the new accelerator pump diaphragm, I set the travel of the pump actuator. Set the carb to Wide Open Throttle, push the pump arm to full on, and set the screw so that there is .015 clearance. This prevents you from tearing the diaphragm at WOT.
The air filter mount bracket was stripped out. This 1/4x20 Helicoil took care of that no problem.
The air filter mount bracket was stripped out. This 1/4x20 Helicoil took care of that no problem.
Carb put together. You can see I removed an unused vaccuum port and put in a 1/8 NPT set screw in its place as a plug.
Carb put together. You can see I removed an unused vaccuum port and put in a 1/8 NPT set screw in its place as a plug.
Categories: Engine and Drivetrain, Fuel, Photos Tags:

Engine Work Continues

January 30th, 2010 No comments

These are some of the latest from the engine project. Dad and I are working on it with Ray at his place.

Categories: Engine and Drivetrain, Photos Tags:

Seam Welding Frame Rails

December 14th, 2009 No comments

Taking another page from Ray’s book, I’ve decided to do some seam welding. I’m doing 1″ welds, a couple inches apart, along some of the frame rails, where they meet the body panels. I guess the stock spot-welds aren’t that great as far as torsional rigidity. anyway it’s an easy enough way to add some stiffness into the body. I’m also going to weld the shock towers. There is bracing where the control arm fasteners come through the shock towers. It’s spot-welded in place and since I’m going to be asking a lot more of those joints with the larger tires and the higher speed corners on the track, I’ll go ahead and weld around those seams as well. I might not worry about it with the frame rails that I already welded to the new floor pans, because I know I welded those really strong.

Categories: Exterior, Sheet Metal Tags: ,