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Archive for March, 2010

Engine assembled

March 27th, 2010 No comments

Dad and I went over to Ray’s for the final engine assembly. We made a couple mistakes. First, we forgot to install the fuel pump eccentric! No matter, it forces me to go electric, which will be great. Second, we didn’t realize that htis type of lifter needs to be installed before the heads. oops. Otherwise, the assembly went great and the motor looks good.

The dial indicator helps us find top dead center
The dial indicator helps us find top dead center
finding TDC
finding TDC
The windage tray goes on. We had to machine these holes to fit. It seems that everything needs customization.
The windage tray goes on. We had to machine these holes to fit. It seems that everything needs customization.
Dad puts on the head for the first time. I'm putting molybdenum disulphide on the head bolt washers so that they have a smooth bearing surface.
Dad puts on the head for the first time. I'm putting molybdenum disulphide on the head bolt washers so that they have a smooth bearing surface.
Initial torque. We torqued the head bolts in 3 steps.
Initial torque. We torqued the head bolts in 3 steps.
final torque
final torque
2010 - IMG_7124.JPG
2010 - IMG_7124.JPG
lifters, pushrods, and rockers are in
lifters, pushrods, and rockers are in
2010 - IMG_7129.JPG
2010 - IMG_7129.JPG
looking good!
looking good!
2010 - IMG_7133.JPG
2010 - IMG_7133.JPG

Categories: Engine and Drivetrain Tags:

Transmission Linkage Rebuild

March 25th, 2010 No comments

One of the things about my old transmission was the sloppy shifting. Anyone who drove it could tell you,  you never really knew for sure if you’d shifted into a particular gear. Well, I bought a new Hurst Competition Plus shifter, part number 391 3180, and took it over to Ray’s. We took apart the old linkage and cut the rods to the proper lengths. Then, we threaded the ends and installed heim joints. Where new bushings were needed, Ray machined some new ones out of stainless steel on his lathe. Then, he took apart the Hurst and made shims for every gear. This process basically took out all of the slop and left me with a REALLY nice shifter.

This is the old shifter - an old Hurst style one, but not the right one for this transmission.
This is the old shifter - an old Hurst style one, but not the right one for this transmission.
2010-01-26 13.52.36
2010-01-26 13.52.36
trans - 2010-01-26%2B13.37.50.jpg
trans - 2010-01-26%2B13.37.50.jpg
You can see how the attachment is made between the rods and the transmission arms - the rod makes a 90 degree turn into that hole. There are plastic bushings (teflon?) that smooth the joint out, and the rods are then secured with a spring clip.
You can see how the attachment is made between the rods and the transmission arms - the rod makes a 90 degree turn into that hole. There are plastic bushings (teflon?) that smooth the joint out, and the rods are then secured with a spring clip.
We replaced the old sloppy joints with really nice solid heim joints that took out all the slop
We replaced the old sloppy joints with really nice solid heim joints that took out all the slop
The heim joints are fastened with AN 365 lock nuts. They're not going anywhere.
The heim joints are fastened with AN 365 lock nuts. They're not going anywhere.
trans - IMG_7138.JPG
trans - IMG_7138.JPG
Ray shimmed the shifter perfectly, so that there is no play in it. Very nice feel to the shifting now.
Ray shimmed the shifter perfectly, so that there is no play in it. Very nice feel to the shifting now.
trans - IMG_7140.JPG
trans - IMG_7140.JPG
trans - IMG_7204.JPG
trans - IMG_7204.JPG
trans - IMG_7205.JPG
trans - IMG_7205.JPG

Repairing the Inner Fender Apron

March 25th, 2010 No comments

I put the radiator in to test fit, and found that the battery is in the way. So I got the parts to move the battery to the trunk.
I put the radiator in to test fit, and found that the battery is in the way. So I got the parts to move the battery to the trunk.
I removed the battery tray, and found yet another rusted throug spot! The only way to properly repair this is to remove the whole panel and replace it. Luckily, these panels are easily obtained.
I removed the battery tray, and found yet another rusted throug spot! The only way to properly repair this is to remove the whole panel and replace it. Luckily, these panels are easily obtained.
To get access to remove the panel, i had to break down the whole front and side of the car. Took less than an hour.
To get access to remove the panel, i had to break down the whole front and side of the car. Took less than an hour.
Panel mostly removed, looking from the right side of the car towards the front.
Panel mostly removed, looking from the right side of the car towards the front.
I'm cutting the panel away with a die grinder. That is a sweet tool.
I'm cutting the panel away with a die grinder. That is a sweet tool.
inner fender apron - IMG_7071.jpg
inner fender apron - IMG_7071.jpg
inner fender apron - IMG_7073.jpg
inner fender apron - IMG_7073.jpg
test placement of the new panel
test placement of the new panel
inner fender apron - IMG_7080.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7080.JPG
Clecos are such good friends in this kind of work
Clecos are such good friends in this kind of work
inner fender apron - IMG_7083.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7083.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7084.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7084.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7085.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7085.JPG
Rosette welds every inch or so - stronger than the old spot welds
Rosette welds every inch or so - stronger than the old spot welds
The new panel didn't come with this fender mount bracket, so I took it off the old panel and welded it on.
The new panel didn't come with this fender mount bracket, so I took it off the old panel and welded it on.
inner fender apron - IMG_7088.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7088.JPG
I ground the welds down to make them smooth.
I ground the welds down to make them smooth.
inner fender apron - IMG_7090.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7090.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7091.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7091.JPG
Looking good painted and the radiator fits great
Looking good painted and the radiator fits great
inner fender apron - IMG_7082.JPG
inner fender apron - IMG_7082.JPG


Categories: Sheet Metal Tags:

Fuel Filter Bracket

March 25th, 2010 No comments

My friend gave me a killer fuel filter – Mallory 3140 – but it was missing a mount bracket. I made one out of 16 gauge sheet metal.

I cut this sheet metal with an air shear
I cut this sheet metal with an air shear
On the left is my fuel filter. My friend gave it to me, but it came without a mount bracket. No problem!
On the left is my fuel filter. My friend gave it to me, but it came without a mount bracket. No problem!
I drew out the pattern, marked the line for the screw holes, and hit the hole locations with a center punch before drilling. the center punch makes drilling so much easier - the bit won't have a tendency to "walk"
I drew out the pattern, marked the line for the screw holes, and hit the hole locations with a center punch before drilling. the center punch makes drilling so much easier - the bit won't have a tendency to "walk"
bent up the back in my vise, and ... finished! I should really have made a bigger mount bracket on the back. I didn't cut enough metal initially though, and this should be good enough.
bent up the back in my vise, and ... finished! I should really have made a bigger mount bracket on the back. I didn't cut enough metal initially though, and this should be good enough.

Carb

March 25th, 2010 No comments

My friend sold me this sweet carb. It’s a Holley 4150 that’s been rebuilt by The Carb Shop to their stage III race carb specs.  I did some rebuild work on it – replaced gaskets, cleaned all the old varnish out, replaced the power valve and accelerator pump diaphragms, replaced the fuel sight windows.  I also tapped and helicoiled the air filter mount and set the accelerator pump clearances.

I cleaned out all the old gas varnish with q-tips and carb cleaner.
I cleaned out all the old gas varnish with q-tips and carb cleaner.
With the throttle valves removed, this is the bottom of the carb
With the throttle valves removed, this is the bottom of the carb
This is a really nice carb that my friend gave me a great deal on. It's a Holley 4150, but it's been rebuild by The Carburetor Shop to their Stage III race carb specs.
This is a really nice carb that my friend gave me a great deal on. It's a Holley 4150, but it's been rebuild by The Carburetor Shop to their Stage III race carb specs.
carefully cleaned off the old gasket material from the metering blocks
carefully cleaned off the old gasket material from the metering blocks
These old accelerator pump diaphragms have seen better days. replaced!
These old accelerator pump diaphragms have seen better days. replaced!
Shiny new accelerator pump diaphragm
Shiny new accelerator pump diaphragm
After installing the new accelerator pump diaphragm, I set the travel of the pump actuator. Set the carb to Wide Open Throttle, push the pump arm to full on, and set the screw so that there is .015 clearance. This prevents you from tearing the diaphragm at WOT.
After installing the new accelerator pump diaphragm, I set the travel of the pump actuator. Set the carb to Wide Open Throttle, push the pump arm to full on, and set the screw so that there is .015 clearance. This prevents you from tearing the diaphragm at WOT.
The air filter mount bracket was stripped out. This 1/4x20 Helicoil took care of that no problem.
The air filter mount bracket was stripped out. This 1/4x20 Helicoil took care of that no problem.
Carb put together. You can see I removed an unused vaccuum port and put in a 1/8 NPT set screw in its place as a plug.
Carb put together. You can see I removed an unused vaccuum port and put in a 1/8 NPT set screw in its place as a plug.
Categories: Engine and Drivetrain, Fuel, Photos Tags: